Day 15

Well this day was a roller-coaster with a a happy ending 🙂

The day before we had huge amount of food for dinner and the lady was very grandma style: as soon as one part was finished she changed the plates and brought the next dish. Two trays of salad for the 7 of us was already not too little, but OK. The came the 3 trays of pasta and she insisted on us finishing them all.

Quick breakfast, watching the news and the saddening weather forecast.

I left around 8 and had a plan to walk 30k. The rain started soon and although I went the coastal way it only made the path longer and more difficult but the scenery was mostly missing due to the massive fog.

I’ve passed yesterday’s roommates, had some figs and at some point felt that either the massive dinner the day before or some of the figs weren’t sitting well.

To my surprise I’ve met with Maria again who I thought is far ahead of me. Again it was good timing as in the gloomy weather all cheer and motivation was needed to keep going. We didn’t stop until half past eleven when we reached Llanes.

That point, at around 20k I was considering stopping. Fortunately the break and the weather turning nicer gave me some boost. It turned out that well that not only we went further but we didn’t take another break for more than another 2 hours, at around 30k.

With one more smaller break we were heading to Cuerres. Already checked a place on – as there were no known and open albergue close by – we were amazed by a place just from the look of it from the outside.


We went in to check if they are open, still have place, etc. and our amazement only grew. It was an oco, eco, passive house with the most friendly owner ever and a quality of environment that I’d be happy to take as a home. Much to our surprise this all based on donations!

We had dinner together like a family with the 9 of us guest and Kat, the owner. The 3 course meal provided was fantastic.

After dinner we sat outside to sing some songs – well, mostly listen to an Austrian guy playing the guitar and singing.

Aaaand then I had a massage 🙂

Off to sleep afterwards with barely any time to check my blisters 🙂

All of this after a day of 41+km in 11 and half hours that got me past 400km.

Day 9

The albergue got quite busy yesterday, all of 25 square meter of it. A few snorers as well of course so I decided to get some earplugs finally.

We left around 7.30 with the same team as yesterday. Planned to do a shortcut in the start to give ourselves time for some longer paths along the coast.

Even though the shortcut was roadside the morning mist in the valley created a nice atmosphere. And the plan was great: the longer, coastal parts were breathtaking.

Took a break around ten on a hill top. Could not resist the view 🙂

After a break in Laredo and crossing the bay with a little boat so Santona I left the others and went ahead. The route went by the beach of Berria and than had to climb a cliff to go to the next beach. From the top both beaches were in view makinb for a perfect place to rest a bit. When the group caught up I continued them on the last few kilometers to the hostel.

Didn’t go back to the beach, rather just finally cut my nails with the €1.20 scissors I’ve bought in Santona … it was a relief because of the boots.

Day 6

After the breakfast I’ve left just a bit before 8. The weather forecast that I’ve checked the day before for Bilbao didn’t have any resemblance with the weather at the start: rain, damp air all morning.

Many places the ground was so muddy that I’ve stopped trying to get around it. There was just no way. Also all the concentration was needed to not to slip.

I’ve met with some dogs with their owner appearing muh later which made me a bit anxious. Especially the one that was at least a meter tall and started walking right at me as it saw me.

Anyway, the forest and the occasional view on the valleys were breathtaking.

I’ve teamed up with Sven at some point and arrived to Zamudia where we took a longer break as a quite steep up and down section followed. We left around 12.30 and took us good 1.5 hours to climb up the 300 meters. A nice way of Basque country to send off pilgrims to Bilbao.

Joined by Maria, the 3 of us arrived at 3pm to Bilbao finishing our 20k etap. However we kept wondering about, had a nice sangria on a sunny square, then went to the St James cathedral and the market and by the time I’ve decided where I’ll stay I’ve made almost 30k.

We’ve also went to Decathlon where I wanted to check shoes but apparently new ones hurt my feet the same way as the old …

At the hostel, after I’ve went to buy some food I saw the snoring Spanish guys to arrive. Boy, I was relieved to note that they are not in a room with me 🙂

Day 4

Couldn’t really sleep – or at least it felt like that – so I started the day early again.

The ascents were quite tough but probably because it was mostly dirt road the way down was surprisingly okay. By 12.30 I arrived to Metriku where I’ve met with the frenchs. We walked outside the city to have a picnic lunch. Then off to the monastery in Ziortza.

It was an extra 8k but very much worth it. We got there by 4.30. They gave us dinner and breakfast. Beautiful view and locally brewed beer. Which was interesting as one type didn’t have bubbles and tastes quite sweet.

Only bad point that the snoring guys are back 🙂 ear plugs would be nice I guess…

Oh and we passed 100k. Yay 🙂